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A Food Lover’s Night in Nazira Bazar, Old Dhaka |
Walking into Old Dhaka isn't just a trip across town; it’s a journey back in time. The air is thick with the scent of woodsmoke, roasted spices, and the constant, rhythmic honking of rickshaw bells. While the entire area is a culinary goldmine, one neighborhood stands as the undisputed crown jewel for any serious foodie: Nazira Bazar.
If you have one night to eat your way through the historic heart of the city, this is where you start.
The Atmosphere: Chaos and Charisma
Nazira Bazar is narrow, loud, and unapologetically alive. It’s a place where royal Mughal heritage meets the gritty energy of a modern metropolis. The best time to visit is after sundown, when the neon signs flicker to life and the large copper degis (pots) are opened, releasing clouds of aromatic steam into the night air.
The "Must-Eat" List
1. The Legendary Haji Biryani
You cannot mention Nazira Bazar without Haji Biryani. Established in 1939, this iconic spot serves only one dish: a fragrant mutton biryani cooked in mustard oil rather than the traditional ghee.
The Vibe: Simple, communal, and fast-paced.
Pro Tip: Go early. They cook in specific batches, and once the pot is empty, they close the doors.
2. Hanif Sankhari’s Kacchi
While Haji is the king of mustard oil biryani, Hanif Kacchi represents the pinnacle of the "Kacchi" style—where raw meat and rice are cooked together in a sealed pot. The result is fall-off-the-bone tender mutton and rice that has absorbed every drop of marrow and spice.
3. Beauty Lassi and Faluda
After the heat of the biryani, follow the locals to Beauty Lassi. This shop has been a staple for decades.
The Lassi: Thick, sweet, and topped with a dollop of fresh cream (malai).
The Faluda: A colorful explosion of vermicelli, basil seeds, fruits, and ice cream—the perfect palate cleanser.
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| Traditional Old Dhaka Kebabs |
As you wander the alleys, look for the charcoal grills. The Seekh Kebabs and Boti Kebabs at the small stalls near the main intersection are charred to perfection and served with thin, handmade rumali rotis.
A Few Tips for the Brave Traveler
Ditch the Car: The lanes are too narrow for vehicles. Take a rickshaw to the edge of the neighborhood and walk the rest of the way. It’s the only way to soak in the sights.
Follow the Crowd: If a stall has a massive line of locals, join it. The high turnover ensures the food is fresh.
Dress Comfortably: It will be hot, crowded, and you might get a little soot on your clothes from the grills. It’s all part of the experience.
Why Nazira Bazar?
Old Dhaka's food isn't just about nutrition; it's about identity. These recipes have been passed down through generations, surviving wars and city shifts. When you eat a plate of biryani in Nazira Bazar, you aren't just a tourist—you're a guest at a centuries-old feast.
